What is the technique
Smocking
This method is an embroidery technique to gather fabric and securing finely pleated or folded fabric with a decorative stitch.
Shirring
This method gathers fabric using multiple rows of stitching which shrinks the fabric into a smaller size, giving it elasticity.
What are the relevant materials needed for the technique
Smocking
Fabric – felt
Paper
Pencil
Ruler
Smocking pattern template
Thread
Sewing needle
Shirring
Elastic thread
Flat elastic
Sewing machine
How to achieve the technique
Smocking
First, using a pencil, draw the grid or dots on the underside of the fabric that will be hidden. Make sure the grids/dots are aligned and evenly spaced out. The spacing is up to your preference with smaller spacing resulting in more intricate smocking and vice versa. Based on your smocking template, stitch the points together with the needle and thread according to the guide and then secure with a knot when done. Cut the thread and repeat the process till the whole grid is completed.
Shirring
Determine the desired length for the final piece and add seam allowances to all edges if possible. Plan a pattern of lines (optional) then stitch along the lines with the sewing machine and elastic thread, using either straight stitches or zigzag stitch. When done, make sure to pull out enough elastic for adequate tension then cut off the elastic threads attached to the bobbin. Lastly after adjusting the elastic for an equally spaced gathering and sufficient tension, knot the threads together to prevent unraveling.
(For elastic shirring, insert the elastic band between 2 pieces of fabric before stitching)
What are the uses and applications of the technique
Photos
Own personal reflections
It is amazing how just using threads can create patterns and textures on fabric especially with smocking. There’s an unlimited amount templates and experimenting on folding and sewing which can give you so much textures. I realised that the honeycomb smocking I did created a sturdy fabric whereby you could rest items on it and the fabric would not compress. In the future I think I could experiment with it being a foldable table or something because it could be stretched out and flattened based on one’s need. The challenges I faced for smocking was that sometimes the templates are not as easy to follow and for shirring, cutting off the elastic without properly adjusting it. Other than that, it was rather easy to do and shirring would have been such a lifesaver if I knew about it while doing my NIE module – Fashion and Design: Wearable Art as Second Skin. I took the long way of hand gathering tulle 🙁