Author: emma0005

The rococo architecture was my inspiration for the final project because I really loved the ornamental designs. I wanted to replicate this ornamental designs and the colours to make it wearable using the different techniques I’ve learnt during this module.

Exploration of techniques

Resin

As the Rococo period was known for it’s extravagance and as seen in the chandeliers that were huge and full of crystals that were so eye catching. In order to replicate the cut crystals I bought a jewel mould to cast the resin. I’m using resin as when it cures, it creates a smooth surface and is transparent like crystals. I added colours to create the look of precious stones such as emeralds and sapphires.

Rococo ceilings were known to have paintings and trying to emulate that, I used resin to encapsulate the printed paper to create the look of oil painted paintings.

Hot glue gun

I borrowed Hai Yen’s baroque moulds to replicate the rococo stucco on the ceilings which were actually made of plaster.  As her moulds were very intricate, I used the hot glue gun instead of resin to get into the tiny crevices. Also the hot glue gun is a “cheat” way as it hardens way faster than resin and is inexpensive yet gets the job done. To create the gilded effect, I spray painted the hot glue forms with Gold chrome or Silver chrome depending on the colour scheme.

Fabric of Thread

Rococo ceilings had lots of details and intricacies and were known to be delicate. They were inspired by nature as seen in the fluidity of their elaborate curved form often resembles the letters “S” and “C”. I thought that the fabric of thread was a great way to show the fluidity of nature due to the curving of threads and delicateness from the fragility of the fabric.

Embroidery

Another way to exude the opulence and 3D effect of the rococo style was embroidery. I used gold threads to embroider the fabric and to create the gilded effect without having to be 3D yet because the gold is so eye catching, it creates an aura / glows when lights reflects of it.

Final Product

What is the technique

Resin

This method uses resin which is a viscous synthetic organic polymer that solidifies into a tough, solid form.

Latex

This method uses latex which contains polymer microparticles in a liquid form which solidifies into a malleable, jelly like structure.

 

What are the relevant materials needed for the technique

Resin

Liquid resin

Moulds

Objects to encapsulate

Mould release spray

Colours

Cups and Ice cream sticks for mixing

Weighing machine

 

Latex

Mould

Liquid latex

Colours

Cups and Ice cream sticks for mixing

How to achieve the technique

Resin

Get 2 cups, one for the hardener and one for the liquid resin. Measure on the weighing machines of liquid resin to hardener at a ratio of 100g : 4g. Throughly mix the mixture and add colours if you prefer. In the moulds, spray the spray release conditioner and put objects inside to encapsulate.  Carefully pour the resin into the mould and let it cure for a few days before removing it from the mould.

Latex

Get 2 cups, one for the hardener and one for the latex. Measure the ratio on the weighing machine. Throughly mix the mixture and add colours if you prefer. Carefully pour the latex into the mould and let it cure for a few hours before removing it from the mould.

What are the uses and applications of the technique

Resin

Latex

Photos

Resin        

 

Latex

Own personal reflections

I really enjoyed experimenting with the resin because it gives the effect of glass but it is actually a plastic. It also allows you to see what has been encapsulated which is really interesting because depending on what you encapsulate and the colours you mix, it can look like water. On the other hand, the texture of the latex grossed me out a bit because as I was helping to pour it into people’s mould, it started drying and the texture became lumpy and sticky. But I guess that’s why it is mostly used for prosthetics for visual effects. The challenges for both is that they cure really quickly so you have to work fast and in small batches to prevent wastage. Also the measuring has to be really accurate or the resin and latex won’t solidify or it may even cause cracks like in the resin if there is too much hardener.

 What is the technique

Knitting

This method uses a thread or yarn to create a fabric.  A number of rows of loops, called stitches are continued when a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. After several rows, a fabric of interlocked stitches is created. There are many knitting styles and different yarn, yarn texture or needle size creates different outcomes.

What are the relevant materials needed for the technique

Knitting needles

Yarn

How to achieve the technique

We watched a video and suffered. First on one needle we created the base stitched of about 10-12 loops (depends on your preference). Using the other needle, we interlocked those loops with yarn and the active stitches are transferred to that needle. This process continues until you are satisfied with the length then you can end the knitting by another interlocking process.

What are the uses and applications of the technique

Photos

Own personal reflections

Although knitting was quite stressful when trying to figure out the loops and techniques, after multiple tries and getting the hang of it, it was a very routine and relaxing technique. I’m quite happy to learn how to knit because I love knitwear and now hopefully I can knit something. Knitting is really versatile as essentially you’re making a fabric but you can do anything you want with the fabric as seen with the different applications.

What is the technique

Fiber etching

This method also known as Devore works best on  fabric blends that contain both cellulose and non-cellulose. The chemical in the etching liquid “eats” away the cellulose, leaving the non-cellulose within the fabric intact.

Bleaching

It is the destruction of colouring matter from the textile to achieve the original colour or the raw colour which is white.

What are the relevant materials needed for the technique

Fiber etching

Etching Liquid

Velvet – 80% rayon and 20% silk

Silkscreen/Paintbrushes for pattern

 

Bleaching

Black/dark-coloured fabric

Bleach

Paintbrush

Spray bottle

Rubber bands

How to achieve the technique

Fiber etching

Protect your surface first and steam your velvet fabric to ensure there is no wrinkles. Lay the velvet flat on the table and either use a paintbrush or silkscreen to print the pattern on the velvet. Similar to the thermochromic ink, scrape the etching liquid until it is equally distributed. Carefully remove the silkscreen frame and use a hairdryer to dry the ink thoroughly or air dry it over a few days which was what we did. Once dry, sandwich the fabric in between baking paper and iron till the etched part turns brownish-burnt. Then wash the fabric in warm water until all the burnt parts are removed.

Bleaching

Dilute the bleach with water using a 1:1 ratio and put the mixture in a spray bottle. You could either fold the fabric, layer a pattern over or paint the bleach onto the fabric to create patterns. If folded, secure the fabric with rubber bands. Then spray the fabric with bleach. Wait until the colour starts changing and satisfies how bleached you want it to be, then wash the fabric. Unravel the fabric and let it dry.

What are the uses and applications of the technique

Fiber etching

Bleaching

Photos

Fiber etching         

Bleaching

Own personal reflections

Both fibre etching and bleaching allows you to customize the pattern especially when the liquid is hand painted. The fibre etching sampled that Galina showed us made me realised that even after the etching, more details such as glitter glue or dyeing could be added on to enhance the etched areas. The challenge faced for bleaching was the concentration as certain fabrics the change was not very visible. Moreover, if the area of fabric was large, the speed of bleaching would differ and some areas would be more bleached than the rest.

What is the technique

Printing with Thermochromic inks

This method uses thermochromic inks that can change from
colourless to colourful or vice versa with the addition of heat. When it cools down, it reverts back to it’s original colour.

 

What are the relevant materials needed for the technique

Thermochromic inks

Objects like a mug

Fabric

Cups for mixing

Ice cream stick for mixing

Silkscreen

Template

How to achieve the technique

Mix 2-3 parts of Beta with a tablespoonful of thermochromic ink. Wear a mask and gloves and carefully yet thoroughly mix up the mixture until there is no more white Beta left. Iron your fabric first if it is crumpled then lay it flat on the table. Ensure that your fabric is bigger than the silkscreen itself for easier removal. Position the silkscreen on the fabric and when satisfied with the position, get your friends’ help to hold down the silkscreen. Pour a sufficient amount of thermochromic ink on the top of the silkscreen then use the scraper to scrap back and forth until the pattern is covered with ink. Hold the fabric down while someone removes the silkscreen and now let it air dry.

What are the uses and applications of the technique

Photos

 

Own personal reflections

Thermochromic inks are very fun to experiment with and you can create various colour combinations with it. However, it is difficult to find the inks locally and it must be outsourced and it is pretty expensive too. The really innovative use of these inks can be a form of warning as seen in the coffee mugs to notify others about the temperature of drinks to prevent burns. I have seen many people on Instagram colouring their shoes with thermochromic inks and it has become a trend because they experiment with so many different colours to come out with many beautiful variations. I actually own a thermochromic umbrella which changes from white to pink under the sun.

What is the technique

Smocking

This method is an embroidery technique to gather fabric and securing finely pleated or folded fabric with a decorative stitch.

Shirring

This method gathers fabric using multiple rows of stitching which shrinks the fabric into a smaller size, giving it elasticity.

What are the relevant materials needed for the technique

Smocking

Fabric – felt

Paper

Pencil

Ruler

Smocking pattern template

Thread

Sewing needle

 

Shirring

Elastic thread

Flat elastic

Sewing machine

How to achieve the technique

Smocking

First, using a pencil,  draw the grid or dots on the underside of the fabric that will be hidden. Make sure the grids/dots are aligned and evenly spaced out. The spacing is up to your preference with smaller spacing resulting in more intricate smocking and vice versa. Based on your smocking template, stitch the points together with the needle and thread according to the guide and then secure with a knot when done. Cut the thread and repeat the process till the whole grid is completed.

Shirring

Determine the desired length for the final piece and add seam allowances to all edges if possible. Plan a pattern of lines (optional) then stitch along the lines with the sewing machine and elastic thread, using either straight stitches or zigzag stitch. When done, make sure to pull out enough elastic for adequate tension then cut off the elastic threads attached to the bobbin. Lastly after adjusting the elastic for an equally spaced gathering and sufficient tension, knot the threads together to prevent unraveling.

(For elastic shirring, insert the elastic band between 2 pieces of fabric before stitching)

What are the uses and applications of the technique

Smocking

Shirring

Photos

Smocking     

Shirring

Own personal reflections

It is amazing how just using threads can create patterns and textures on fabric especially with smocking. There’s an unlimited amount templates and experimenting on folding and sewing which can give you so much textures. I realised that the honeycomb smocking I did created a sturdy fabric whereby you could rest items on it and the fabric would not compress. In the future I think I could experiment with it being a foldable table or something because it could be stretched out and flattened based on one’s need. The challenges I faced for smocking was that sometimes the templates are not as easy to follow and for shirring, cutting off the elastic without properly adjusting it. Other than that, it was rather easy to do and shirring would have been such a lifesaver if I knew about it while doing my NIE module – Fashion and Design: Wearable Art as Second Skin. I took the long way of hand gathering tulle 🙁

 

What is the technique

Felting

This method is an anceint on, originating from over 2,000 years ago whereby fibres are matted together to create textile. This can be done through wet felting, needle felting, nuno felting or carroting.

Wet felting requires only heat, moisture and agitation to  interlock and compact wool fibres together.

Needle felting uses needle which has notches in them to stab and tangle the wool fibres together.

Nuno felting bonds loose fibres into sheer fabrics such as silk gauze, creating  a lightweight felt. The fibres can completely cover the background fabric or allow some parts to show through as a decorative element.

What are the relevant materials needed for the technique

Felting needles

Natural fibres such as wool

Hot water

Soap

Styrofoam

Sheer fabric

How to achieve the technique

Wet Felting

First layer a plastic sheet down to protect the surface below it. Then take a tuft of the natural wool fibres and add some hot water and soap onto it. Next, I rub the fibres together in the palm of my hands. This friction causes the scales on the individual fibres to hook together, interlocking to create a fabric. Once satisfies with the matting and stiffness of the felt, gently rinse out the soap and pat dry the felt. Lastly, leave it out to dry.

Needle Felting

Similar to wet felting, this however is done with dry fibres. First rub the fibres together so that the fibres interlock together which makes it easier for the next part which is the needling. With the fibres semi-locked with each other, place them on top of a piece of styrofoam to make the needling easier. The needle is a special type of needle that has notches in it. By poking the needle through the fibres and out and repeating the process, these notches catches onto the fibres and tangles them with other fibres to produce felt.

Nuno Felting

Similar to needle felting, nuno felting requires a sheer fabric such silk gauze to be laid on top of the styrofoam then followed by tufts of loose fibres. I arrange the fibres based on a shape or pattern I like before proceeding to needle the fibres into the fabric. The fibres gets tangled and interlocks with the fabric creating a fluid felt textile.

What are the uses and applications of the technique

Wet Felting

Needle Felting

Nuno felting

Photos

Wet Felting

Needle Felting

Nuno Felting 

Own personal reflections

The processes are quite different in my opinion whereby wet felting is much more messy and carefree whereas needle felting and nuno felting are more meticulous and routine. Even though I enjoyed the processes very much, I really enjoyed and liked needle and nuno felting more as I could make more detailed objects with it and it gave me more control over what I was doing. I could control the direction of the needle entering, the speed of the stabbing and how stiff how I want the felt to be. Needle and nuno felting was a stress reliever to me because I could stab the fibres very hard but at the same time it helped tangles my fibres. On the other hand, wet felting was messier and I struggled a bit with it as it was difficult to control to get the shape I want.

What is the technique

Applique

This method  is an ornamental needlework which involves sewing different pieces of fabric of different shapes and patterns onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern.

What are the relevant materials needed for the technique

Fabrics

Threads

Needles

Sewing Machine (optional)

How to achieve the technique

Select the fabrics and create patterns to be traced onto the fabrics. Then leave a 0.5 cm border and cut out shapes/patterns I want. Arrange these cut out fabrics in the order I prefer and pin it down. Using either by hand or sewing machine, stitch around the perimeter of my applique pieces using a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine or blanket stitch by hand. There are different types of stitches so it is entirely up to preference and you could change the colour of the threads to create details.

What are the uses and applications of the technique

Photos

Own personal reflections

I have hand sewn applique before and I found out it was way easier than using a sewing machine which I tried during class. Especially because I chose a heart which I thought was easy – turns out it was not because of the curves and edges which I ended up spending half the time unpicking and sewing and repeating the process till I was satisfied/gave up. I prefer sewing by hand as there are many other stitches I could use to create different looks such as a blanket stitch which cannot be done by machine. Also sewing by hand to me has a very personal touch and allows me to experiment along the way.

What is the technique

Thermoplastics

This method involves using a polymer or a fibre whose molecular structure beaks down and becomes fluid at a certain temperature, allowing the fabric to be reshaped through pleating or moulding. When cooled, the fabric remains in that permanent shape until it is reheated to the same or higher temperature.

What are the relevant materials needed for the technique

100% Synthetic polyester such as organza

Pot

Water

Stove

Tongs

Objects for moulding

Baking paper for pleats

Small rubber bands

Aluminium Foil

How to achieve the technique

Select objects such as marbles or specially cut patterns from acrylic sheets and tie the organza around them using the rubber bands. Once secured, wrap the organza secured with aluminium foil then place the aluminium package into a pot of boiling water and make sure that it is fully submerged and close the lid. Always boil the organza outdoors in a well ventilated area to avoid breathing the toxic fumes. After 1-2 hours, remove the packages and let it cool down a bit before removing the aluminium foil. Once the organza has cooled down to room temperature, remove the objects and gently pat dry and air dry.

What are the uses and applications of the technique

Photos

Own personal reflections

Thermoplastic showed me that fabric in a way could be durable as it retain it’s shape after drying. It created really beautiful designs such as the one with marbles that resembles corals or grapes. It also made me rethink about what I was buying in my clothes which is mostly polyester and how many of us tend to throw away clothes really fast based on fashion trends. This method showed me that I could create textures very simply using moulds and heat instead of beaded embroidery which I am very used to. The colour of the organza does play a part as I feel that getting one that is quite colourful like mine, allows the light to reflect differently on the curves of the organza created by the mould, which enhances the form/shape of organza.

What is the technique

Vacuum forming

This method uses a heated plastic sheet that is stretched over a single surface mould and forced against the mould through the suction of the vacuum.

What are the relevant materials needed for the technique

Plastic sheet for vacuum forming

Vacuum forming machine

Mould

How to achieve the technique

Select the mould I want to use then cut a piece of plastic sheet that is bigger that the mould. Place the sheet in between the frame of the vacuum forming machine and then start the heating process. Wait till the plastic sheet is heated till it does not have “waves” in it and is just a flat stretched sheet of plastic.  Lift up the frame and quickly place the mould underneath then using the lever, push the frame onto the mould and switch on the vacuum. This will vacuum the plastic accurately onto the sides of the mould. When the plastic sheet cannot be vacuumed any longer, it is done and the sheet can now be removed from the machine. Gently pry off the mould from the moulded plastic sheet.

What are the uses and applications of the technique

Photos

Own personal reflections

I think vacuum forming allows is a really easy method because I can duplicate the same mould for many times without compromising the integrity of the original mould. It is also a really quick process and with the vacuum formed moulds, I can cast anything into the mould to create objects of the same appearance but of different materials. It is really interesting how vacuum forming can make a flat sheet of plastic look very fluid and very realistic. As seen from different people’s applications, vacuum forming is a very minimalistic appearance and is also uses very little material to create a 3D shape which means it is quite environmentally friendly.