Smocking | Surface Design

Lesson 06, 20 September 2018

Manipulating fabric and paper use different stitching/folding techniques to create crease and folds on fabric. This creates a swatch of smocking pattern that typically embroiders on women’s clothes in the cuffs, bodices, and necklines.

fabric Smocking

Materials: Fabric, threads, pen, ruler

Start off by drawing grid lines at the back of the fabrics and make stitching marks across. Stitch up the patterns by hand.

Here’s a series of template created by Ligia Fiedler:

T e d i o u s work but the results were remarkable!! (I wish there is a faster way though)

Manipulating fabric with paper

Materials: 100% polyester organza, yupo paper, rubber bands

Using yupo paper (waterproof quality), fold desirable pattern. Repeat on another paper. Place fabric in between papers and refold patterns again. To mold, secure them tightly with rubber bands and boil at 180°C for 1.5 to 2 hours. Leave to dry.

I wasn’t able to try this technique out, but here are examples of how it’s done on large fabrics using clamps. Baking is used instead to cure the mold.