DR2007 Surface Design - Debbie Ng

For my final project, I was inspired by rock formations, also known as rock strata.

Material exploration

#1: wet felting + needle felting

I used yellow wool for the base, and tried using layers of white wool to simulate the layers of rock strata. After soap and water and drying, I needle felted wool yarn to create some dimension. The overall look was still quite flat, so I didn’t move forward with this technique.

#2: plastic fusing

I cut strips of plastic in varying thickness and fused everything together. The ironing caused some distress and holes, which I liked, but just like the felting, it didn’t have the dimensionality I was looking for.

#3: fabric of threads

I used yarn of varying thickness and sewed them together. The sewing process caused some of the yarn to bunch up and become wavy, which was quite a nice effect. I might have moved forward with this technique if I didn’t fall in love with knitting.

#4: knitting

I tried out the reverse ridge knit stitch pattern, and I liked the effect it produced. Similar to the layers of rock stratification I was going for.

Development

Stocked up on wool from Spotlight for the final project

Tried out the bubble stitch, which produced a cool texture

Experimented with using different yarn sizes. This didn’t work out as the thinner yarn didn’t line up properly with the thicker yarn.

I started with the reverse ridge knit stitch, casting on 11 stitches. After a few rows of the pattern, I wanted to try switching to the bubble stitch. Once I did that, the stitches somehow increased to 24. My initial idea was to make a scarf, but because the width of my work increased, I figured I would make a clutch/purse instead.

Weaving the edges together to form the purse

I needle felted some bits of grey wool yarn into the purse to create some imperfection / randomness, the way the rock formations occur in nature.

Final product

Resin

Materials needed:

• Mould
• Liquid resin and hardener
• Materials to be encapsulated (e.g. leaves, rocks, beads)
• Gloves
• Digital scale

Steps:

Mix a proportionate amount of liquid resin and hardener (100g resin to 4g hardener). Quickly pour into the mould. Wait until it sets slightly, then place the materials to be encapsulated and pour another layer of resin.

Applications:

Accessories, paper weight, painting

Documentation

LATEX

Materials needed:

• Mould
• Silicone rubber and hardener
• Gloves
• Digital scale

Steps:

Mix a proportionate amount of silicon rubber and hardener (100g silicon rubber to 4g hardener). Quickly pour into the mould.

Applications:

prosthetic makeup, artwork, coaster

Documentation

the one on the left turned out like that because the latex had already started to dry 🙁

the underside – ack!

Reflection:

These techniques get pretty messy, so it’s important to dedicate a space that can accommodate them. Also, they have to be done in open air, with gloves and face mask.

We visited the Singapore Tyler Print Institute (STPI) for a guided tour about the building as well as an exhibition featuring Aaron Curry’s works.

STPI is named after its founder, Kenneth Tyler, who was one of the biggest post-war printers. It cost 13 million to fund STPI, showing that Singapore has always had ambitions to become an arts hub in the region. There are 4 levels in the building, and the 4th floor is where artists stay during their residency.

One of the artists who recently completed his residency is Aaron Curry, from Austin, Texas. He is trained in painting but has developed a love for sculpture. His works are inspired by bones, body parts, and the BMX culture which he was part of. His sculptures are a feast for the eyes, with bright hues and bold lines. His work process involves sketching, laser cutting, pvc/aluminium sandwich and spray paint.

His works look cheery and vibrant at a glance, but he was actually driven to create art through his wife’s sickness. This juxtaposition is intriguing and inspiring.

Materials needed:

• Knitting needles
• Yarn
• Tapestry needle

Applications

Scarves, sweaters, bags, purses, decoration

Documentation:

confused students in class

didn’t have knitting needles so Yiwen gave me a pair of satay sticks as a substitute ≧(´▽｀)≦

multi-coloured yarn

experimenting with different yarns

reverse ridge knit stitch

Reflection:

Knitting is decidedly my favourite technique I’ve learned in Surface Design class. After learning the basics of knitting, I started to see it everywhere — on my clothes, on all sorts of stuff while window shopping etc. It’s so inspiring seeing people online hand knitting sweaters, beanies, socks, etc (r/knitting). I’ve never previously paid much attention to them because I buy those items from retailers where the knitted apparel is mass produced. 

My final project was made almost exclusively with the knitting technique. I hope to keep improving down the line.

Fibre etching

The fibre etch remover is a gel that creates decorative effects by removing fibres. The remover is most effective on plant fibres like cotton, linen, rayon, and paper.

Materials needed:

• Fibre etch gel
• Screen
• Squeegee
• Fabric

Steps:

Pour the fibre etching gel onto the screen, and screen print on fabric. If using velvet, print on the back of the fabric. Leave to dry. Iron the fabric and wash in warm water.

Applications:

Scarf, clothing, wallpaper, pillow cover

Documentation:

BLEACHING

Materials needed:

• Fabric (100% cotton or rayon)
• bleach
• spray bottle
• water
• gloves
• rubber bands

Steps:

Prepare your fabric by tying them in bunches to create patterns that will show up after bleaching. Pour bleach in a spray bottle (1/4 of the bottle), and pour water until bottle is full. Mist the fabric with the bleach mixture. Wait for the fabric to fade. Wash and dry the fabric immediately after it has faded to the point that is desired.

Applications:

tie-dye t-shirt, bag, pillow case, clothing

Documentation:

tied up in bunches

post-bleaching. this was a fail as the fabric didn’t fade.

trying with a different fabric

finished! my hands smelled so bad

Reflection:

Fibre etching

How it works: the velvet contains cellulose, which is plant based. Beneath the layer of cellulose is polyester, which is synthetic. Only the cellulose layer will disintegrate with the etching liquid. Galina mentioned that it is imperative that we get the correct kind of velvet for it to work. She did a test by burning a small piece of the fabric and smelling it. If it smells like paper, it’s not the right one. If it smells like burnt hair, it’s the correct one.

I’ve seen the effect on fabrics before, but never knew how it was made. I’m intrigued by the liquid’s power to eat away at plant based fibres, leaving the synthetic fibres intact.

Bleaching

It takes some trial and error to figure out how to make nice patterns with bleaching, and depending on the fabric you use, it can be a quick way to manipulate fabric and create cool effects.

Thermochromic ink

Thermochromic inks can change colour and turn invisible / visible upon contact with heat.

Materials needed:

• Thermochromic pigment
• Silkscreen medium
• Fabric
• Screen
• Squeegee

Steps:

Mix some thermochromic pigment into a cup of silkscreen medium (approximately 5 scoops of medium to 1 scoop of pigment). You can add acrylic paint colours to create your desired hue. Pour the mixed solution onto the screen and screen print onto fabric. Leave to dry.

Applications:

Mugs, clothing, drink cans, furniture

Documentation:

multi-coloured!

trying out a mix of colours

Reflection:

This is a relatively easy technique to achieve, and encourages interactivity. Thermochromic inks could potentially be used in exhibitions where users can come into contact with an artwork and see it change in nature almost immediately. 

We visited Touch & Print, where Leon gave us a behind-the-scenes look at how the company prints on various surfaces. The company supplies the Magic Touch paper, which we bought for heat transfer on wood and fabric, so it was interesting to see what else they print on. They work on a large variety of materials, like fabric, wood, leather, metal, acrylic and PCB (printed circuit board). We were also shown how they incorporate electric elements like LED lights onto the various surfaces. It was pretty insightful learning from Leon and seeing the possibilities being pushed under his creative direction.

Sewing with elastic

Sewing an elastic thread onto fabric is a way to create new textures and forms.

Materials needed:

• Fabric (e.g. leather)
• Elastic thread
• Flat elastic
• Sewing machine

Steps:

Stretch the elastic thread over the fabric and sew it on. Stretching the elastic thread allows for more fabric to be gathered together.

Applications:

Pillow cover, scarf, cinched dress

Documentation

Smocking

Smocking produces various pleats or gathers in a piece of fabric to form beautiful patterns and textures.

Materials needed:

• Fabric
• Needle and thread
• Ruler
• Marker

Steps:

Draw lines to form a grid. Mark out the places to be stitched together. Different smocking patterns have different stitching patterns, and may require the grid to be dotted rather than lined.

Applications:

Scarf, clothing, wallpaper, pillow cover

Documentation:

drawing a grid with indications on where to sew. This is the arrow pattern.

finished product

trying out the flower pattern. This ended up being a fail because the black lines could be seen. Remedy: draw dots instead of lines.

Wave pattern

Bonus: these cute dumpling-looking things Galina taught us how to sew:

Reflection:

I really enjoyed experimenting with the smocking technique. I used quite a thick fabric, which meant that it was quite hard to stitch, but the stiffer fabric also meant that the finished pattern showed up better. When I used the thin cotton fabric, it held its shape well when I first finished it, but after storing it away for a few weeks, I discovered that it lost it shape. When using thinner fabrics, it’s important to store it flat so it doesn’t lose its shape.

Felting

The felting technique involves condensing and pressing fibres together until the desired shape is formed.

Materials needed:

• Wool or wool yarn
• Hand soap
• Water
• Felting needle

Steps:

Wet Felting

Arrange wool as desired. Pour some hand soap and warm water and rub the wool until it is completely drenched in water and soap. Wash off the soap under running water and leave to dry.

Needle Felting

Ball up some wool or wool yarn and stab repeatedly with felting needle. Tip: use a dish sponge as a base.

Applications:

Plush toys, apparel, rugs, jewelry, pillow cover, bag

Documentation

arranging the wool

after rubbing with soap and warm water, and rinsing

finished product, with some needle felting to shape it

experimenting with felting on fabric

my first needle felt ball

needle felting with wool yarn

finished product. I have since become slightly addicted to making needle felt balls.

Applique

Appliqué is a decorative technique where pieces of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern.

Materials needed:

• Assorted fabric
• Threads
• Sewing machine

Steps:

Arrange pieces of fabric on top of a base fabric and sew them on. Experiment with different stitching settings on the sewing machine.

Applications:

Bags, apparel, jewelry, pouches

Documentation:

Reflection:

I’ve heard of needle felting before and I’ve always wanted to try it. The process is pretty therapeutic, and it became something I did while taking a break from other projects. I would like to try needle felting plush animals in the future.

There are many possibilities with applique, but I’d need to get better acquainted with the sewing machine in order to explore more.

Thermoplastics

Materials needed:

• Polyester fabric
• Molds like marbles, plastic saucers, wooden blocks
• Rubber bands

Steps:

Tie molds (e.g. marbles) around the fabric. Wrap the fabric in foil. Put it in a pot of boiling water for 1 hour. Check back occasionally to see if the water has dried up. Carefully retrieve the fabric and untie the molds. Leave to dry.

Applications:

Dividers, cushions, clothing, accessories, bags

Documentation:

just before boiling

boiling for 1 hour

happy campers post-boiling

Vacuum forming

Materials needed:

• PVC
• Vacuum forming machine
• Mould

Steps:

Take your mould and place it in the middle of the machine. Place the PVC on top and wait for it to wrinkle and un-wrinkle. Then, pull the lever and wait for the PVC to balloon up, then push the mould up for the PVC to form over it.

Applications:

Packaging, enclosures, helmets

Documentation:

Reflection:

With thermoplastics, there’s a lot of room to explore with different moulds. It is a time-consuming process but generally quite a straightforward technique to master.

As for vacuum forming, it took me a few tries to get a hang of ballooning the plastic before letting it wrap around the shape for a better fit. There might be some size restrictions if you’re planning to vacuum form in large dimensions.