What is the technique?

Heat setting can be defined as a treatment by which shape retention, crease resistance, elasticity etc is given to the fibres. It changes the strength, softness and dye-ability of the material. This technique requires the heating of thermoplastic fabrics to be transformed into structural (eg: pleating, folding, etc.) and sculptural forms.

Thermoplastic refers to the quality of a fiber whose molecular structure breaks down and becomes fluid at a certain temperature, making it possible to reshape the fabric by pleating, moulding or crushing. The fabric is ‘fixed’ on cooling and cannot be altered unless heated to a temperature greater than the one at which it was reshaped.

Polyester belongs to the group of synthetic fibers. A synthetic fabric is thermoplastic that can be transformed through heat into new configurations, which on cooling are completely stable.

 

What are the materials needed?

• 100% Polyester Organza
• 3D Object Moulds (marbles, pebbles, etc.)
• Rubber bands
• Cooking pot (unused)
• Portable electric stove
• Aluminum foil
• Yupo paper (for folding effect)

 

How to achieve the technique?

1. Get your fabric, 3D moulded objects, and start putting the fabric into shape using the mould.

2. Secure with rubber bands tight enough so that the fabric won’t lose its shape during the boiling stage.

3. Once done moulding the fabric, wrap the entire fabric in aluminium foil.

4. Secure the aluminium foil with rubber band as an indication of knowing which belongs to you. (This was done due to boiling the pieces as a class.)

5. Fill the (unused) cooking pot with hot water (pre-boil for “shorter” process). Fill the pot with the wrapped fabrics.

6. Input the settings – 180 degrees for minimum 40mins, or maximum 1 – 1.5 hours. Ensure the boiling is done outdoors!

7. Once time is up, pick out your piece from the pot and leave it to cool.

8. Remove the aluminium foil once it is cooled. Leave the rubber bands on for a while before removing it from the fabric.

After removing the rubber bands, do not stretch the fabric as you may lose the form.

9. Leave the fabric to dry

 

What are the uses and applications of the technique?

• Light shades
• Dividers
• Cushion sheets
• Wearable items (eg: scarfs, jewelleries, etc.)

 

Photos of experimentation with technique

 

Own personal reflections

The technique of thermoplastics fabric is interesting as it allows the fabric to be boiled down to form shapes. It allows us to play with the moulds into shaping the fabric into a unique form as a whole. I have seen past batch using this technique mostly being inspired from corals, and one will be able to see a very similar resemblance. It is also interesting to use origami folds as the mould to shape the fabric, creating folding effects.