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Lesson 6: Fabric Manipulation – Smocking

What is the technique?

Smocking is a hand-stitching technique that gathers fabric into small shapes as the threads are pulled tight on the back of the fabric. The stitches are sometimes visible to help organize the folds in direct smoking.

 

What are the materials needed?

  • Fabric (lightweight that gathers well)
  • Hand sewing needles
  • Thread
  • Scissors
  • Smocking pattern template
  • Ink pen

 

How to achieve the technique?

Circular Smocking on fabric

  1. Choice of fabric (in this case: organza)
  2. Draw circles on fabric as a template (diameter not too small to be able to see effect of smocking)

3. Cut the fabric into circles

4. Hand sew around the circle (near the hem)

5. Circular smocking is formed

6. Hand sew the formed pieces into neckpiece etc. (optional)

 

Smocking pattern on fabric

  1. Choice of fabric
  2. Pattern template for reference (from Google or self)

3. Copy the template to the wrong side of fabric (depending on your choice of grid dimension)

4. Hand stitch following direction of lines

5. Pull thread to gather fabric

6. Pattern created!

 

What are the uses and applications of technique?

  • Wearable items (jewellery, scarf, apparels, bags, etc.)
  • Cushion cover

 

Photos of experimentation with technique

Results of Circular Smocking #1

Material used: Organza

 

Results of Circular Smocking #2

Material used: Felt (slightly thicker than felt used in Smocking #1 )

 

Results of Smocking #1

Material used: Felt

Smocking Pattern: Leaf Design, Canadian Smocking

Unit: 3cm by 3cm

 

Results of Smocking #2

Material used: Polyester

Smocking pattern: Leaf design, Canadian smocking

Unit: 2cm by 2cm

(Realized that this material does not suit smocking)

 

Results of Smocking #3

Material used: Cotton

Smocking pattern: Punto Gama

Unit: 1cm by 1cm

 

Own personal reflections

Smocking became one of my favourite techniques as you can tell by the number of patterns I tried with various fabrics. It allows me to play with the pattern by changing the units per grid and allowing me to improvise from a chosen pattern.

I am considering to use smocking as one of the techniques for the final project with the intended pattern I am planning to do.

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